| Seville is located
in the Southeast of Spain. A provincial capital, seat of the government
and parliament of the Comunidad Autonoma de Sevilla (Regional Government).
It has more than 700,000 inhabitants, nearly half the population of the
whole province.The historic centre of Seville is located on the left-hand
side of the river in a spot previously protected by the Almohade wall of
which some ruins remain today. It contains some of the most famous neighborhoods
of the city such as Santa Cruz, San Bartolom, San Vicente, San Lorenzo
and El Arenal. On the right-hand side of the river stands the Arrabal suburb.
These are the most interesting areas for the traveler to visit.
Santa Cruz and the Cathedral.
A distillation of all that
is typically Andalusian, the neighborhood of Santa Cruz (the old Jewish
Quarter), the Cathedral, the Giralda, the Archivo de Indias (Archive of
the lndies) and the Alcázar, are must-see monuments of Seville.
They offer pleasures for the five senses, representations of history and
legend and insights into Andalusian culture and sensibility. Adorned with
beautiful patios, multitudes of flowers and unbelievably narrow streets,
the neighborhood of Santa Cruz stands in the middle of the historic centre
of the city, protected by the walls of the Alcázar. Bordering the
Jewish Quarter stands the Cathedral and related buildings, the most spectacular
complex of monuments in the city.
Walking along the Avenida
de la Constitución the first impressive site is the façade
of the Parish Church of El Sagrario built in the 17th century by Zumárraga,
Rojas and Vandelvira. Inside it contains marvelous Baroque altarpieces
by Duque Cornejo and Pedro Roldán.
To one side of this building
stands the main façade of the Cathedral. It was built on the location
of the High Mosque of Seville, demolished in the 15th century, and for
many centuries was the biggest religious monument in all of Christendom.
It contains five naves of Gothic style with a large transept, site of the
Main Chapel, a construction which boasts a magnificent altarpiece and a
Plateresque Grill. The Cathedral was designed by Alonso Martinez, Simón
de Colonia and Juan Gil de Ontañón. The works were finished
off in 1506, with a Plateresque Royal Chapel in the temple's sanctuary,
later used as the place of burial of Fernando Ill el Santo and his son,
Alfonso X el Sabio. The city's patron saint, Virgen de los Reyes, presides
over the altar. The Cathedral also houses the Chapel of the Virgen de la
Antigua, a construction of important Colombian influences, the sepulchre
of Christopher Columbus, a choir with spectacular Mudéjar stalls
and exuberant Baroque organ boxes. The Cathedral Museum contains works
by great painters, codexes and choir books, chasubles and ornaments and
a sumptuous collection of gold work. Bordering the Cathedral are remnants
of the old mosque, the Patio de Los Naranjos (Patio of the Orange Trees)
and the Giralda, the city's most prominent monument. Built on a foundation
of Roman stones carried from Itálica, it was continued in brick
by the Almohades, who decorated the façades with sebka work and
poly-lobed horseshoe windows. The tower, a later Christian work, is crowned
with a spectacular Renaissance bell shaft. We recommend climbing to the
top to contemplate the splendid view of the city from the Giralda, a monument
to eternity.
Leaving the Cathedral through
the Puerta de Palos the visitor sees the Square of the Virgen de los Reyes
and on his left the façade of the 18th-century Palace of the Archbishop.
Its colours (blood-red and ocher-yellow) are characteristic of Sevillian
Baroque constructions. The Old Diputación, (Town Hall), a 17th century
palace, presides over the Square of Triunfo. At the other end of the square
stands the lndies Archives, built in times of Felipe II.
The Puerta del León
(Lion's Door) provides access to the Alcázar (one of the oldest
royal residences in Europe). This location has been occupied by a series
of different buildings -a Roman acropolis, a Paleochristian Basilica, different
Visigothic buildings, a Moorish castle, and the first Moorish Fortress
of the 9th century. Pedro I built the Mudéjar palace, a mixture
of Gothic elements with Mudéjar plaster and coffer work. Especially
interesting are the Patio de la Montería (Hunting Patio), the Patio
de las Doncellas (Maidens Patio), the Patio de las Muñecas (Dolls
Patio) and the impressive Salón de Embajadores (Ambassador's Hall),
with its huge golden cupola of the mid-15th century. Next to the Mudéjar
palace stands the Palace of Carlos V, adjacent to the Jardines del Alcázar
(gardens) of Moorish inspiration with Renaissance and Romantic elements.
The visitor exits the Alcázar
into the Patio de Banderas (Patio of the Flags) with its spectacular view
of the Cathedral and the Giralda, and then into the peaceful streets of
the Barrio de Santa Cruz, an old Jewish neighborhood. From this point,
Vida street leads to the Alley del Agua (Water), bordering the walls of
the Alcázar. A large number of typical popular buildings line this
street, protected by iron gates which open onto patios profusely decorated
with flowers. The street leads into the Square of Santa Cruz, presided
over by the Cross of the Cerrajería (locksmith's), which connects
the neighborhood with the Murillo Gardens. Leaving this square along Santa
Teresa street the traveller arrives at the Convent of San José,
a 17th century building.
Continuing along the streets
López de Rueda and Reinoso, the visitor finds himself in the Square
of Los Venerables, location of the Hospital de los Venerables Sacerdotes,
a large Baroque building founded in 1675 as an asylum for priests. It contains
the frescoes painted by Valdés Leal and by his son. The Hospital
de los Venerables is now used for art exhibitions.
Gloria street leads to the
typical Square of Doña Elvira, and then to the Square of the Alianza,
adjacent to the Alcázar walls. Further along, Gloria street connects
with Mateos Gagos street, full of lively bars and taverns. The Giralda
bar, for example, is located in an old Moorish bath-house and boosts an
excellent tapas menu. Further along, on the other side of the street, is
located the Parish Church of Santa Cruz, 17th century, which contains works
by excellent artists. Opposite the church begins Guzmán el Bueno
street which leads to the bay windows of the Pinelo House, site of the
Academia de Bellas Artes (Academy of Fine Arts). The building contains
two beautiful patios and rooms with Gothic, Mudéjar and Plateresque
decoration. Further along, Abades street connects with Bomberg street,
where Roman columns, remains of a temple dedicated to Mercury, lend the
street the name of Mármoles (Marble).
Buses: 2 1, 22, 23, 25,
26, 30, 31, 33, 34, 40, 41, 42, C-3 and C4.
San Bartolomé,
Pilatos, La Alfalfa.
The neighborhood begins
at the extremely popular Puerta de la Carne (Meat Door), which is named
after an old slaughterhouse situated there. It preserves the atmosphere
of old, popular Seville, whose intricate network of streets has maintained
Arab and Medieval buildings combined with palatial and religious constructions
of the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries.
Beginning the visit along
Mármoles street we come to the Parish Church of San Nicolás,
18th century, with a rococo interior and a number of altarpieces and sculptures
by Pedro Roldán and Francisco Ruiz Gijón.
The square of Santa María
La Blanca contains the 18th century façade of the Palace of Altamira.
To one side, the Church of Santa María La Blanca, was built over
the remains of an old synagogue. The interior was redecorated in the 17th
century with some of the most creative Baroque plaster work anywhere in
Seville, the work of the Borja brothers.
Archeros street leads to
the Parish Church of San Bartolomé. Nearby, on Levíes street,
stands the Palace of Mañara, the home of Miguel de Mañara,
model for Don Juan Tenorio, famous character of world literature. It is
an impressive Renaissance building with an interesting façade bearing
fresco paintings which imitate brick surfaces. Continuing on to the Plaza
de las Mercedarias and then along to the Vidrio street, the visitor reaches
the Parish Church of San Esteban, Mudejar building of the late 14th century
with interesting, early 15th-century Gothic doorways. Nearby stands the
House of Pilatos, interesting for its blend of Gothic, Mudéjar,
Italian Renaissance and classic elements.
From the square of Pilatos
we recommend continuing along Aguilas street. On its left-hand side stands
the Convent of Santa María de Jesús, Mudéjar style
of the early 16th century. Continuing along Rodrigo Marín street,
the visitor skirts the side of the Church of San Ildefonso, one of the
few Neoclassical constructions of Seville, built in the 18th-century with
an interesting main façade and two towers. Opposite stands the Convent
of San Leandro whose orchards border with the gardens of the house of Pilatos.
The church (17th century), contains magnificent altarpieces by Montañés
and Jerónimo Hernández. The gate house of the convent sells
exquisite egg yolks made by the nuns.
After a short walk along
the Cabeza del Rey Don Pedro street, which contains numerous antique shops,
the visitor reaches the Church of San lsidro, another example of 14th century
Mudéjar art. Its main altarpiece contains the large painting, The
Passing of San lsidro by Juan de Roelas. Exiting the church, along the
Cristo de las Tres Caídas street (The Three Falls of Christ), the
visitor enters the Square of Alfalfa, a lively spot of the historic centre
with bars which are popular for their tapas (small portions of popular
dishes).
Buses: Puerta de la Carne
and surroundings: 1, 21, 32, 24, C-3 and C-4.
San Luis, Macarena and Feria.
This area is made up of
a group of different neighborhoods with authentic Sevillian flavour. In
by-gone days it was a neighbourhood renowned for its strong typical flavour.
It is a popular part of town-we might call it a village inside the city.
Its streets, such as the Calle de la Feria, where the Thursday flea-market
is set up, being the oldest and full of people and tradition, it feels
like a village within the city, preserving taverns and shops from previous
decades.
Near Alfalfa is the square
of San Pedro, overlooked by the Church of San Pedro, Mudéjar building
of the 14th century, with an 18th-century tower and doorway and an interesting
collection of art works. The apse of the temple marks the beginning of
Doña María Coronel street, location of the Convent of Santa
Inés, founded in 1375. A turn-off to the left leads to the Palace
of Las Dueñas. The building, decorated with a garden, is a mixture
of styles, ranging from Gothic-Mudéjar to Renaissance and Baroque.
Returning to the Doña María Coronel street, the traveller
reaches an intersection with the Bustos Tavera street which leads into
the Square of Los Terceros, a lively meeting area which contains the Rinconcillo,
the oldest tapas bar in Seville. To one side, the Parish Church of Santa
Catalina, a Gothic-Mudéjar building raised on the site of a former
mosque, of which only the mirab and tower remains. Inside it contains a
small sacramental chapel, one of the most interesting Baroque constructions
of Leonardo de Figueroa
The Sol street begins at
the Square of Los Terceros, on which stands the old Convent of Los Terceros,
(current seat of the Hermandad de la Cena) built in the 17th century with
an interesting façade of Latin American colonial style. From Sol,
Enladrillada street leads to the Convent of Santa Paula. Its garden/orchard
contains the most representative work of the Catholic Kings style in Seville:
a Gothic-Mudéjar door, decorated with Renaissance tiles by Niculoso
Pisano and Andrea della Robbia. The interior contains an altarpiece by
Alonso Cano and sculptures by Montañés. It also contains
a small convent museum, and the gate house sells marmalades and sweets.
The Santa Paula street leads
to the Convent of Santa Isabel, founded in the 15th century, with a church
designed by Alonso de Vandelvira in the 17th century. Inside the building
contains the Cristo de la Misericordia (Merciful Christ) by Juan de Mesa.
The nuns who live here produce golden embroidery, traditional handicraft
of Seville. San Luis street contains the marvellous example of Baroque
art which is the Church of San Luis, today no longer used as a church.
On the other side of this great building, the street leads into the Church
of Santa Marina, a 14th century building containing an interesting chapel
covered with a Mudéjar vault of interlacing arches. In the Square
of Pumarejo, following Fray Diego de Cádiz street, and attached
to the inner perimeter of the walls, is the Church of San Hermenegildo.
According to tradition,
this location was the site of the martyrdom of the Saint. It preserves
a chapel on the site that previously held an Almohade door. Continuing
along the ring road the traveller arrives at the Moorish fortifications,
opposite the Hospital de la Sangre, the current seat of the Andalusian
parliament and at one time the biggest hospital of Europe, designed by
Martín de Gaínza. What today is the assembly hall was the
church. The end of the wall connects to the Arch of Macarena, lending its
name to the neighborhood. Next to it stands the Basilica of Macarena, building
of recent construction, interesting for its Image of the Virgen de la Esperanza,
a 17th century work and the most beloved of the Sevillians as well as the
interesting museum which holds its furnishings. From here the visitors
enters the heart of the Neighborhood of Macarena. He must take Parras street
to Relator street and then continue on to Feria street, where we recommend
visiting the market, the oldest and most popular of Seville. Leaning against
this building is the Church of Omnium Sanctorum, erected in the 13th century.
It tower displays sebka work copied from the Giralda. Following along Feria
the traveller arrives at the Parish Church of San Juan de la Palma, also
Gothic-Mudejar. Inside, it contains the group sculpture, Virgen de /a Amargura
with San Juan, one of the landmarks of 18th century religious imagery.
Buses: Encarnación:
10, 11, 12, 15, 20, 24, 27, 32. Macarena: C-1, C-2, C-3, C-4, 2.- Feria:
13, 14. |