| Excursions
LA AXARQUIA AND THE EASTERN
COSTA DEL SOL
Starting from La Hoya de
Malaga eastwards, between sea and mountain is the district of la Axarquía,
the most perfect remembrance of the province's Muslim past.
Near Malaga, Torre del Mar
offers its large beach with the most varied tourist facilities. Five km
inland is Vélez-Malaga, capital of la Axarquia, a town with whitewashed
houses and tiled roofs conserving remains of an interesting historic past:
Phoenician deposits, the Muslim Alcazaba, the Gothic church of San Juan,
with several figures carved by Pedro de Mena, the Mudéjar church
of Santa María la Mayor, and the baroque sanctuary of the Virgen
de los Remedios (Our Lady of the Remedies).
The coastal road leads to
Nerja, atop a steep coastline projecting a formidable mirador out to sea
known as the Balcón de Europa (Balcony of Europe), which once housed
an Arab castle: by the palm trees of the Paseo Marítimo (Seaside
Walk) rises the 17th century church of El Salvador. One can visit the Cueva
de Nerja, an underground cave of extraordinary beauty, with three areas
open to the public, one of them serving as an auditorium. Inhabited during
the Upper Palaeolithic and Neolithic periods, the cave conserves rupestrian
paintings and other remains. A little ways inland is Torrox, a village
with narrow streets and white houses rising up the hillside
FROM MALAGA TO ESTEPONA:
WESTERN COSTA DEL SOL
From Malaga to the point
where the province of Cádiz begins there is a large area of sandy
beaches. Around charming old fisherman's villages have risen hotels, urbanisations,
casinos, golf courses, and pleasure harbours, all contributing to a wide
entertainment offer.
The tourist centres are
lined back to back: Torremolinos, nucleus of the Costa del Sol in the 1950s,
an old fisherman's village which has replaced the majority of its old windmills
for modem luxury facilities, sports and leisure areas; Benalmádena,
right next to Torremolinos along the coastline and with an interesting
historic centre, is a town with white houses and a rich Phoenician and
Roman past of which there are remains in its Museo Arqueológico
(Archaeological Museum); Fuengirola, with a large beach and a Paseo Marítimo,
a pleasure harbour and a zoo - from its Arabic past it conserves the ruins
of the Castle of Sohail, built under Abderrahman III; Marbella, located
on the ancient Roman Via Augusta, is the most cosmopolitan places on the
Costa del Sol, with a historic centre conserving its Arabic streets, little
white houses built around quiet squares, a mediaeval castle and important
renaissance and baroque buildings; San Pedro de Alcántara and Estepona
are similar to the above Costa del Sol tourist cities, with charming old
quarters and plentiful hotel and sports facilities along the coast.
There are many inland villages
worth visiting, most of which bring together beautiful surroundings and
a primitive nucleus containing a noteworthy cultural past. Such is the
case of Mijas, an Arabic town amidst pine forests with charming white houses
covered by bougainvillea and jasmine, streets dedicated to making esparto
handicrafts and linen, a parish church which was formerly a mosque, and
its magnificent view which sometimes reaches the distant mountains of Africa;
Alhaurín, a genuine fruit grove in the Valley of Guadalhorce; Coin,
located in a beautiful and fertile valley; 0jén, a picturesque mountain
village very near Marbella and the starting point of excursions to Sierra
Blanca, where there are specimens of capra hispánica (wild Spanish
goat); and finally Casares, a captivating town with white houses and red
rooftops, located on a hill just under a castle in ruins, from where one
can enjoy a magnificent landscape.
RONDA AND ITS MOUNTAINS
In the surroundings of the
Valley of Guadalhorce and reaching the Serranía de Ronda is one
of the most genuine districts in Malaga and Andalusia, with fertile green
valleys of orchards, orange and lemon gloves, dotted with whitewashed villages,
which give way to the steep mountain landscape of holm oaks, pine trees
and Spanish firs, where the legendary bandoliers José Maria el Tempranillo
and Pies Largos once roamed.
Ronda, of which Rainer Maria
Rilke once said: 'Everywhere I sought the dreamt of city and at last I
have found it', rises upon a rocky promontory on the edge of an impressive
a gorge falling down 150 m. The Puente Nuevo (New Bridge), built in the
18th century, joins both sides of the town separated by the gorge. Its
rich Arab and Christian past filled the town with monuments, the most famous
ones being the Casa del Rey Moro (House of the Moorish king), with beautiful
gardens of Arab inspiration and an old road carved in the rock which goes
down to the torrent bed; the palace of Mondragón, with a renaissance
portico, where the Catholic Kings once stayed; the palace of the Marqués
of Salvatierra, with a splendid renaissance façade and Ronda style
wrought iron balconies; the Casa de la calle del Gigante, typically Arabic
in design; the Posada de las Animas where Cervantes once stayed; the church
of Santa María la Mayor, one of the most interesting buildings in
the city, constructed over a mosque of which the tower still stands, and
the church of the Espíritu Santo, built by order of the Catholic
Kings in commemoration of the conquest of the city. By the river are the
Arab baths, of which three rooms have been conserved. In its renowned Plaza
de Toros (bullring), built in 1785, every year a 'corrida goyesca' is celebrated
(the matadors wear special outfits from the days of the painter Francisco
de Goya).
Near the town of Benaoján
one call visit the most famous prehistoric cave in the province, La Pileta,
which has interesting palaeolithic rupestrian paintings in a naturalistic
style.
Ronda is the ideal starting
point for many excursions. Just over ten miles north are the ruins of the
old Roman city of Acinipo (today it is called Ronda la Vieja) which has
the remains of a theatre and an ancient road connecting Acinipo to Malaga.
Ardales rises next to the
Chorro dams in a landscape with breathtaking cliffs and the remains of
two Arab castles and springs of Sulphurous waters; nearby is the Cueva
de Doña Trinidad, another cave with rupestrian paintings. Near Ardales,
on the top of a steep rock known as Mesas de Villaverde, stand the ruins
of a Mozarabic basilica carved in the rock, next to what are considered
to be the ruins of the celebrated castle of Bobastro.
Another appealing route
leads from Ronda to the famous white villages that sprout up on the mountainsides,
undeniable traces of the Arabic past: Benadalid, with its cemetery in the
remains of an Arab castle; Algotacín, in the midst of a beautiful
landscape., the very attractive town of Gaucín, with its Arab and
Christian past reflected upon the ruins of the 'Castillo del Aguila' (Castle
of the Eagle) and the 'Convento de las Carmelitas Descalzas' (Convent of
the Barefooted Carmelites).
ANTEQUERA AND EL TORCAL
The town of Antequera and
its surroundings, due to the rich historical past reflected in the monuments,
and El Torcal de Antequera, with its beautiful landscapes, make this region
an especially appealing place.
Located in a fertile valley
and on a crossroads Antequera is a town with a rich and ancient past. Inhabited
since the Bronze Age, as shown by its interesting megalithic monuments,
it was a Roman colony (Antikaria) and was afterwards conquered by the Arabs:
after being reconquered in 1410 by Fernando de Antequera, the city developed
a rich renaissance and baroque culture, magnificent examples of which remain.
From its Arabic past there are some walls and castle towers, as well as
the Puerta de Malaga, which became the Ermita de la Esperanza (Hermitage
of Hope) once it was reconquered by the Christians. The Royal Collegiate
Church of Santa María la Mayor, which stands next to the Arabic
Alcazaba on a hilltop with generous views, is a beautiful renaissance temple
with a magnificent plateresque façade; equally remarkable are the
Iglesia del Carmen, a church with an imposing Mudejar structure and construction,
the Gothic Iglesia de San Zoilo, the renaissance lglesia de San Pedro,
the Palacio de las Escolanías, a mannerist construction from the
early 17th century, and the mid- 19th century Plaza de Toros (bullring).
The Museo Municipal (City Museum) is located within the 18th century 'Palacio
de Nájera' (Palace of Nájera), and it houses pieces from
Roman days.
In the surroundings of Antequera
there is a collection of dolmens, commonly known as caves - cueva del Romeral,
cueva de Menga, cueva de Veira-, megalithic burial grounds from the third
millenium B.C., which are among the most important prehistoric megalithic
monuments.
At a distance of 13 km from
Antequera, following the road that goes to Malaga, is El Torcal, one of
the most captivating landscapes in Malaga. The varied and whimsical shapes
adopted by its karstic rocks create a strange and suggestive landscape.
Nearby there are other natural
areas well worth a visit, such as the Desfiladero de los Gaitanes, where
the Guadalhorce River flows between rocky walls which sometimes rise up
40 m; a service path known as 'caminito del rey' which is a splendid mirador
from which to admire the landscape, or the Laguna de Fuente de Piedra,
the largest lagoon in Andalusia and one of the few European havens where
pink flamingoes can breed. |